Watch & Jewellery
THE SHAPE TO RULE 'EM ALL: Cartier's Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time
Text by Kee | Photos courtesy of Cartier
12.03.2019
Only limited to 100 pieces each
Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time in platinum
Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time in rose gold
1/3

If owning a tonneau shaped wristwatch in present day was too daunting of a game changer for you, then this version by Cartier will either make you finally commit to one or turn you off for good. Chances are, it might just be the former. For starters, Cartier returned to the case they first used in 1906 for this mechanical juggernaut. What is worth admiring is the seamless construction of the case that they prioritised in re-creating, which means you won’t be spotting any obvious lines on the pink gold or platinum case and lugs, giving the illusion that they created this from a single block of material. It measures 52.44m in length and 29.8mm in width, which practically rules out petite wrist sizes but symbolically this wasn’t intended for small timers either. The premise of this wristwatch is the dual time function that that is reminiscent of similar tonneau shaped wristwatches from their stable since the ‘90s. Those who were wristwatch-spotting and collecting since those days will notice similar design codes that have not altered much since those days, giving us several throwback moments in one fell swoop. Even the top and bottom placement of the two timezones are similar. However, this 2019 rendition is their first attempt at skeletonising the movement, which in itself is a whole new challenge. The manual-winding movement (Calibre 9919 MC) had its blueprint was reconfigured in order to align the wheels of the geartrain in a linear fashion to satisfy the conditions of a tonneau shaped case. And remember that the case is curved which means the movement follows suit thereby elevating the complexity of the task. The easy portion about this is the user-friendliness of using its dual timezone feature without you needing to read pages off a manual to understand. The home time is read from the upper half of the dial, while the local time is located at the lower half. To adjust the second timezone, the wearer need only push the crown at 4 o’clock to activate the one-hour jumps initiated by the mechanism. Only 100 pieces have been for each of the case materials and an extra 20 pieces for the special platinum cases embellished with baguette-cut diamonds. No one said getting your hands on one of these would be easy too.

www.cartier.com

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