Watch & Jewellery
PUTTING THE "WTF" INTO WATCHMAKING: Genus' GNS 1.2
Text by Kee | Photos courtesy of Genus
17.12.2019
12 components freely 'slither' around the dial in a figure-eight pattern
The wristwatch is available in a 43mm white gold case
The manual-winding movement is capable of 50 hours of power reserve
1/3

Prepare to be floored. Swiss watchmaking startup Genus has launched one of the most captivating mechanical timekeepers in the last decade of avant-garde watchmaking. With the debut of GNS 1, the traditional way of reading time has had its guidebook torn to shreds. Who is behind it? The ballsy watchmaker Sébastien Billières, who contributes to the technical end of the brand, has had extensive experience working for the likes of Roger Dubuis and Urwerk, and he has even taken part in the development of one of Harry Winston’s highly complex Opus projects – which explains where he gathered the courage to create something that eschews boring. Your eyes might be crisscrossed just by looking at the skeletonised dial that resembles Terminator’s endoskeleton. But rest assured that telling the time from this 43mm white gold beast is easier than it looks (unless you’re heavily intoxicated). The trick is to just focus on the white arrows that are on the dial (there are just three main ones to follow). To read the hour, simply look at the white arrow fixed at the 9 o’clock position as the hour chapter ring rotates around the dial. Easy right? Now, here comes the part that is Genus’ genius move. The minutes have been deconstructed; think of it as the same concept of a minute repeater. Two indicators are responsible for telling the minutes: one summarises it in 10-minute blocks (e.g. 10, 20, 30) and the other tells the exact minute (e.g. 1, 2, 3). Now, the part that will make the hairs of a purist stand is the caterpillar-like track that goes over and under the two sub-dials at 12 and 6 o’clock, worming around in the shape of eight. This track is responsible for telling the minutes of the aforementioned 10-minute blocks. Don’t be misguided by the long body and several pointy arrows that could have been designed better for the sake of reading the time. Simply follow the head which is the only arrows of that track that are in white. Correspond that reading with a rotating disc and arrow at 3 o’clock and you’ve got the minutes. Now, if you got all of that information, go grab yourself a beer. This manual-winding wristwatch, limited to eight pieces, will set you back roughly US$296,000 – yes, the price of owning greatness.

www.genuswatches.swiss

 

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