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DEMNA IS FASHION’S DIVINE INTERVENTION: Balenciaga’s Fall 2022 Show
Text by Kee | Photos courtes of Balenciaga
09.12.2021
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
Balenciaga's fall 2022 collecton, titled 'The Lost Tape'
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From now on, Demna Gvasalia will be known as Demna (yes, a move that his pal Kanye recently made too). Name change aside, Demna’s Balenciaga has been riding on a high for years. It’s not even too crazy to wonder if they might have be a victim of their own success. How do you to top a custom The Simpsons animation, a Hacker Project with Gucci, turn a runway into an post-apocalyptic scene, get the most photographed celebs (Biebs, Ye, Kim) to be dressed in your wares around-the-clock? And that’s just naming a few examples in recent years. Well, Demna’s all about doing it differently even if the clothes favour an extension of some of the greatest hits that he has been dishing out to the Balenciaga tribe for years (and even way before with Vetements). Demna has rebranded an entire era of clothing, in particular the ‘90s, a time period that even fashion experts have come to dismiss as a weird and polarising transition period for garments, one with more faux pas than hits. Balenciaga disagreed and has profited handsomely from this decision to turn oversized tees, rubber clogs, boxy suits, dad shoes, and logomania into its core output. For fall 2022, Demna has termed the collection and show as The Lost Tape, a tribute to those grainy footages as seen on VHS found in your parents’ basement (these days millennials probably know this lack-of-a-HD visuals as a filter). Take early days Alexander McQueen fashion shows, which possessed that kind of intimacy and indie-styled rawness. This was what Demna was trying to achieve with the show’s assets, going against the stereotype that Balenciaga is that established fashion house with the high budget to carry out an epic runway show with fireworks at the finale (yes, it’s more than capable of doing that too thank you for wondering). Directed by Harmony Korine (the same director responsible for plenty of Alessandro Michele’s Gucci visuals in the earlier days), the front row took us back to the ‘90s, where Naomi Campbell was a thing (still is), Isabelle Huppert was a brilliant actress (still is), and Diane Pernet made quite a commanding presence in public (still does). Demna’s aim for this collection is to “from the past about what could have been and never was” and “symbolically fill a gap from Balenciaga’s forgotten years” which saw the house go through three creative directors, including Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière. But don’t take this footnote as Demna throwing shade. What he hopes to present are ideas that part-modern and part-throwback, one that several generations of fashion conscious folks would appreciate, whether it’s the Nirvana grunge crowd or the quirky Jeff Goldblum-type dresser. Demna has termed these ideas as “anti-fashion, deconstruction, and monochromatic minimalism.” There were black wading boots, leather kimono wrap tops, oversized dad jeans with flared bottoms, peeking underwear bands attached to low-rise trousers, deconstructed negligee slips, wifebeaters, square-toed ballet flats, and all the exaggerated silhouettes that Demna has favoured from day one. There are also several details to the fits too that are only privy to its wearer, namely a parka with a detachable travel pillow at the neck and a pair of Pantaboots with five pockets. Has ahead-of-his-time designer Demna got it spot on with this collection? Let’s just say even a faux pas is orchestrated.

www.balenciaga.com

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