Style
KIM JONES HAS A NEW MUSE: Fendi’s Fall-Winter 2022 Womenswear Show
Text by Kee | Photos courtesy of Fendi
25.02.2022
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
Fendi's fall-winter 2022 womenswear
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Delfina Delettrez Fendi has been a secret weapon for the storied fashion house that bears her family name for the longest time. She had a first-hand view of Karl Lagerfeld’s genius since she was a girl and she has advanced to become one of the most underrated jewellery designers of her generation even without the help of her famous last name. Having made irregular contributions to the Fendi’s accessorising game during Lagerfeld’s era – alongside her mom Silvia Venturni Fendi – it would only be logical that the 35-year-old was to return to the brand in a full-time role. That time is now, with Kim Jones in-charge of the womenswear division. Jones, who counts the likes of Kate Moss and as a muse, has surprisingly mentioned Delfina’s name in the notes of his latest fall-winter 2022 collection. He recounted seeing her walk into the Roman headquarters dressed in a selection of her mom’s clothes – more specifically a printed blouse from the spring-summer 1986 collection by Lagerfeld – that inspired him for this season’s collection. In short he described it as “although they come from the past, [they] feel very now.” The years 1986 and 2000 were very much in Jones’ approach here. He wanted the “sartorial stylings” of the former with the “diaphanous lightness” of the latter. It is this contrast of strength and softness that he imagines today’s confident women to inherit in their wardrobes too, an idea anchored by the range and weight of the human experience such as courage and vulnerability. For fall-winter 2022 , Jones certainly made a calculated decision to go all-out in the use of chiffon, constructed in a manner that appear to be a wink at designer Nensi Dojaka’s on-trend deconstructed dresses. Jones, however, makes full use of the sheer fabric in a manner that resembles gulfs of smoke enveloping the human body but fabricated to flatter and pamper the skin like a delicate negligee. That said, it is Jones’ viewpoint in tailoring that is his trump card. Very few of today’s womenswear designers boast a similar design diction like Jones in this department as he offers today’s upper management form and functionality in equal measures. Think of a blazer detaching into a tailored gilet or even a trench coat silhouette translated into a jacket fit a Matrix cameo. Even a few tailored looks in grey – cropped jackets with a modified mandarin collar – seem to echo the genius of his recent showing of Dior’s winter 2022 collection. Even the pockets on some of the tailoring feature a D-ring to hang keys (which is something that Jones does often) or even accessorise with a mini Peekaboo charm or a Ledger device that was recently launched in menswear. The O’Lock print, an offshoot of a jewellery design by Delfina, also makes an apt cameo here since debuting in the fall-winter 2022 menswear collection. Like Jones, this collection “all started with Delfina.” Ah, the power of a woman.

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