28.06.2022
Véronique Nichanian would be the first to admit that she loves everything about the sun: the feeling of warmth on skin, its vibrant hues and silhouettes at different times of the day, and its symbolism of being alive as well as a fresh start. Somehow, these have also become key pillars for today’s designers who are simply echoing the current needs and wants of the human experience. This positivity has bled into the design story of Hermès in recent times with a strong focus on earthy and citrusy colourways that also emphasise the idea of joie de vivre (or sparking joy in today’s speak). For her spring-summer 2023 menswear collection presented on the historic grounds of tapestry factory Manufacture des Gobelins, there’s perhaps no better time for Nichanian to celebrate normalcy. Her version of clothing isn’t badgering on rakes to take a hike, sail a boat, and sky dive all in a day. Hermès simply wants you to be still, read a book, take in the breeze… and just breathe. The colour palette tells you what you need to know – lemonade, melon, lilac, bubble gum, lagoon – which sounds like a spontaneous picnic recipe anywhere airy and green. The clothing again captures the spring and summer seasons to a tee, an exploration of lightness that is more approachable than guarded: blousons with perforations, hooded parkas in technical satin, boxy polo shirts, collarless shirts, and short-sleeved turtleneck pullovers. Windbreakers and parkas in Berlingot canvas are also optioned in a glossy look that shimmers under the sunlight or even gives the illusion of post-wet weather. Nichanian has also dropped hints about where she hopes these clothes would appear. Graphics of seahorses, tall leaves, and crayfish on tank tops and knits make well-timed cameos for those who harbour ambitions of being in the South of France come next summer, a holiday idea supported by the technical satin bucket hats, neoprene sandals, and Garden Party Voyage bags in the catalogue. We guess you can start packing soon.
