In the eyes of Nicolas Ghesquière, to understand the present, we must look back on the past. Continuing his penchant for post-modernist dress and freeness in a world revived, his fall-winter 2023 collection for Louis Vuitton tackles the age old question: what is French style? Think about it for a second. What comes to mind? Chic? Effortless? Savoir-faire? Could anything be more of an enigma? Ghesquière, quite cheekily, has decided to shake things up by interpreting the French style through its constant evolution. Morphing the past with an uncertain future, there is a sense of indefinability to the 44 looks that invite us to cast our own views on what French dress is. Set at the Musée d'Orsay, marbled walls and ornate chandeliers juxtapose a futuristic multi-sensory runway brought to life once again by artist Phillippe Parreno, production designer James Chinlund and composer Nicolas Becker. Echoing the impact of spring-summer 2023's red flower installation, light and sound sync as models graced the runway in dresses that to call to French classical architecture with flowy pleats and sculptural décolletés. Relaxed a-line silhouettes and languid tailoring is presented with abstract collars and lapels, a tribute to Ghesquière's love for exaggerated forms. A translucent mesh dress is elevated with thousands of delicate metal cannetilles. Calls to rustic country styles and royal opulence follow with features of wool, tweed, small check and linen. The wool skinny scarf appeared as a key styling feature. In these later looks, Ghesquière's efforts to merge contemporary and heritage reached its peak. Contrasting a faux shaved shearling coat, the dynamic glow of ultraviolet glasses added unmissable futurism to the runway. A blazer also got a trompe l'oeil makeover, giving the illusion of herringbone despite its woven leather fabrication. Leather goods, mirror this play on the past, present and future, shifting between traditional monogram, minimalist chic and the surreal. Final features of kimono-esque silks, reflecting Ghesquière recent travels, signal the undeniable influence of other cultures in today's globalised world. In a last ode to patriotism, vibrant red and blues juxtapose a muted palette of black, white, greys and beige. On the whole, the paradoxical show makes an impression that French style is not just a take on dress but an attitude - to be oneself, unapologetically, on your own terms.