Gift giving is an art. Beyond a small box wrapped with a bow, a gift signals care. It is filled with thought. It is motivated by love. Going as far back as the Qing Dynasty, women in China would hand-sew purses for loved ones. Fastened by a delicate silk string, the embroidered pouches depicted motifs to convey hopes and well-wishes for another. Flowers for love, golden melons for longevity, the Ruyi, an ancient pattern with inward curling swirls, for prosperity. Inspired by this sentimental past, Shiatzy Chen's fall-winter 2023 collection pays homage to this pull of both the heart and strings. Exuding the House's transcendent East meets West design code, the collection of 60 looks contemporised simple tailored silhouettes with oriental cutting patterns, diagonal lapels and pocket covers. Mandarin collared dresses with knotted buttons are modernised in tweed. The sophistcated Tang suit is re-envisioned alongside the relaxed and youthful feel of the jockey jacket and voluminous faux fur coat. The flowy Mamian pleated skirt, first worn by China's horse-rising nomads, is juxtaposed by fabrics that echo Western histories: lace, tulle, leather and velvet. Culturally distinct displays of jacquard further deepen this sense of cross-border harmony. Using hand-sewn techniques, the show's take on the ancient Chinese purse came to life on down jackets, coats, dresses and suit ensembles. Opulent nature-inspired symbols, such as, the phoenix and peony, added a flair of decadence alongside the House's signature use of Ruyi and abstract cloud patterns. Nodding to the Chinese New Year, the addition of the embroidered rabbit brought softeness to a collection that fashions one's inner emotions. Grounded in modern black and white with sumptuous pops of gold, blue, purple and red, this season's take on Neo-Chinese chic, it seems, continues to expand the horizons on possibility. 

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